Paris, Day One

Saturday, February 15

F5E21414-6138-4CFE-9891-3426E2E46EC4                                     My first flowers: Centre Culturel Irlandais

I’ve been busy proclaiming my intention to write a book.  Staying at the Irish Cultural Center in Paris often means people “want to know,” that is, what are you up to?   Not only does the Center have artists in residences, it attracts fellow travelers: writers and would be writers.  I explain to those who ask that I’m working on a “project.”  If more is required, I describe the book I aiming to create.  “It’s an exploration of my grandparent’s experience as immigrants, background history of the times, anthropological theory, and fiction.”  This idea sounds ridiculous to my ears let alone theirs.  But I say it none the less.  As I told one of the administrators who politely inquired, “I admit to what I’m doing as a way of keeping my feet to the fire.”   To another inquisitive writer, I lamented that since the book encompasses vast amounts of material, the notion of sorting through it overwhelms me.  She described her approach as plowing through and seeing where it leads.  I agree.  What choice do I have?

I managed to avoid my nemesis, the blank page, by searching for a set of glasses: one for flowers, one for drinking, one for toothbrush and toothpaste, one for pens and pencils.  But this is Paris where like stores often live side by side: book stores, furniture stores, plumbing stores, sock stores.  I thought I was up to locating the street of houseware “magasins”: this is not my first foray.  But after several turns around the neighborhood, no success.  What to do?   I knew the Monoprix on Boulevard Saint Michel didn’t have them.  Been there, done that.  Then, I remembered the outlet or overstock stores catty corner to the Luxembourg Gardens.   I purchased two which fit the bill and was able to buy L’Official, the weekly bible of goings on in Paris, at the kiosk.  Now I can avoid that blank page by perusing all that Paris has to offer.

Having walked five miles and been awake for 36 hours, I made it home, had a long nap, and, then, a very good dinner at my old stomping grounds, La Méthode.

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Finishing with an impressive cafe gourmand.
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Then, a walk home.  Pas mal.
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Return to Paris Day 1 con’t

Monday, April 1

The day began with an expensive cab ride to the city: I had too much baggage to manage on public transportation. As soon as I put my bags in my room, I rushed to the Alliance Francaise to buy books for classes I plan to take over the next month. Immediately all the French I had been studying and listening to deserted me. I understood nothing and could only state when necessary, “Je parle un peu francais” and, then, ask meekly, “Est-ce que vous parlez anglais?”  I only speak a litttle French.  Do you speak English?

The walk back through the Jardin au Luxembourg heartened me as I passed men playing pentanque.  Here is France on a beautiful day.  It’s okay.

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But not for long.  I hadn’t eaten all day, so I decided on an early dinner.  I walked behind the Pantheon and down Rue de la Montagne Saints Genevieve to a restaurant I remembered as pal mal, not bad, La Methode.  It was a particularly beautiful spring night, almost 70 degrees with a gentle breeze making it’s way along the streets of Paris.  All the outdoor tables were full.  When I sat in the last row, a waiter appeared and asked if I wanted to dine.  I did and was given a menu.  Only then did I notice that I was sitting at the three tables set for dinner.  Everyone else was having an aperitif: it was 6:30, much too early for dinner.  I couldn’t sit there and eat, the only one to be chewing.  I made a hasty retreat, telling the woman behind the bar in English that I’d changed my mind.  I didn’t even try French.  She nodded with disdain.

Now what to do while the rest of Paris laughed and talked and drank?  I decided not to retreat to my room with a sandwich; instead, I went to a nearby cafe and ordered a pastis.  Several times, the waiter asked impatiently what brand of pastis I would like.  Finally I understood and confidently said Ricard. He moved his head side to side in irritation and explained they only had one kind, a kind I never heard of.  I agreed, happy to send him off.

Like most Parisiens that night, I sat for an hour, watching passersby.  As the waiter never appeared, I had to go in the cafe to pay.  Is that allowed?

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Paris isn’t for the faint hearted.  How did my relatives manage as they tried to slip by unnoticed?